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  1. What is Mold and Can It Harm Me?
    Saturday, July 17, 2010
  2. Dryer Vent Saftey
    Tuesday, March 16, 2010
  3. Why Hire A Certified Home Inspector
    Thursday, February 18, 2010
  4. Foundation Walls and Floors Cracks
    Friday, February 12, 2010
  5. 15 Tools That Every Homeowner Should Own
    Wednesday, February 10, 2010
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What is Mold and Can It Harm Me?

Vist Innovative Home Inspection to learn how we can help to Inspect and to Test for mold.

Mold, Moisture and Your Home

 
Mold Basics 
  • The key to mold control is moisture control.
  • If mold is a problem in your home, you should clean up the mold promptly and fix the water problem.
  • It is important to dry water-damaged areas and items within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold growth.
Why is mold growing in my home?
 
Molds are part of the natural environment. Outdoors, molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organicmatter, such as fallen leaves and dead trees.  But indoors, mold growthshould be avoided.  Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the sporesare invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoorair.  Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfacesthat are wet.  There are many types of mold, and none of them will growwithout water or moisture.
 
Can mold cause health problems?
 

Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless moldspores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing.  Molds have thepotential to cause health problems.  Molds produce allergens(substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants and, in somecases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins).  Inhaling or touchingmold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitiveindividuals.  Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, suchas sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis). Allergic reactions to mold are common.  They can be immediate ordelayed.  Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma whoare allergic to mold.  In addition, mold exposure can irritate theeyes, skin, nose, throat and lungs of both mold-allergic andnon-allergic people.  Symptoms other than the allergic and irritanttypes are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold.  Researchon mold and health effects is ongoing.  This article provides a briefoverview; it does not describe all potential health effects related tomold exposure.  For more detailed information, consult a healthprofessional.  You may also wish to consult your state or local healthdepartment.

How do I get rid of mold?  

It is impossible to get rid of all mold and moldspores indoors.  Some mold spores will be found floating through theair and in house dust. Mold spores will not grow if moisture is notpresent.  Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlledby controlling moisture indoors. If there is mold growth in your home,you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. If you clean upthe mold but don't fix the water problem, then, most likely, the moldproblem will recur.
 
Who should do the cleanup?
 
This depends on a number of factors.  Oneconsideration is the size of the mold problem.  If the moldy area isless than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3-foot by 3-footpatch), in most cases, you can handle the job yourself, following theguidelines below.  
  • If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult with an InterNACHI inspector.
  • If you choose to hire a contractor (or other professional service provider) to do the cleanup, make sure the contractor has experience cleaning up mold.  Check references and ask the contractor to follow the recommendations of the EPA, the guidelines of the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygenists (ACGIH), or other guidelines from professional or government organizations.
  • Do not run the HVAC system if you know or suspect that it is contaminated with mold.  This could spread mold throughout the building. 
  • If the water and/or mold damage was caused by sewage or other contaminated water, then call in a professional who has experience cleaning and fixing buildings damaged by contaminated water. 
  • If you have health concerns, consult a health professional before starting cleanup.
Tips and Techniques 
 
The tips and techniques presented in this sectionwill help you clean up your mold problem.  Professional cleaners orremediators may use methods not covered here.  Please note that moldmay cause staining and cosmetic damage.  It may not be possible toclean an item so that its original appearance is restored.   
  • Fix plumbing leaks and other water problems as soon as possible. Dry all items completely.
  • Scrub mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely.
  • Absorbent or porous materials, such as ceiling tiles and carpet, may have to be thrown away if they become moldy. Mold can grow on or fill in the empty spaces and crevices of porous materials, so the mold may be difficult or impossible to remove completely.
  • Avoid exposing yourself or others to mold.
  • Do not paint or caulk moldy surfaces.
  • Clean up the mold and dry the surfaces before painting. Paint applied over moldy surfaces is likely to peel.  If you are unsure about how to clean an item, or if the item is expensive or of sentimental value, you may wish to consult a specialist. Specialists in furniture repair and restoration, painting and art restoration and conservation, carpet and rug cleaning, water damage, and fire or water restoration are commonly listed in phone books. Be sure to ask for and check references. Look for specialists who are affiliated with professional organizations. 
     
What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas:  
  • Avoid breathing in mold or mold spores.  In order to limit your exposure to airborne mold, you may want to wear an N-95 respirator, available at many hardware stores and from companies that advertise on the Internet. (They cost about $12 to $25.)  Some N-95 respirators resemble a paper dust mask with a nozzle on the front, and others are made primarily of plastic or rubber and have removable cartridges that trap and prevent most of the mold spores from entering.  In order to be effective, the respirator or mask must fit properly, so carefully follow the instructions supplied with the respirator. Please note that the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) requires that respirators fit properly (via fit testing) when used in an occupational setting.
  • Wear gloves. Long gloves that extend to the middle of the forearm are recommended.  When working with water and a mild detergent, ordinary household rubber gloves may be used.  If you are using a disinfectant, a biocide such as chlorine bleach, or a strong cleaning solution, you should select gloves made from natural rubber, neoprene, nitrile, polyurethane or PVC.  Avoid touching mold or moldy items with your bare hands.   
  • Wear goggles.  Goggles that do not have ventilation holes are recommended.  Avoid getting mold or mold spores in your eyes.
How do I know when the remediation or cleanup is finished?

You must have completely fixed the water or moistureproblem before the cleanup or remediation can be considered finished,based on the following guidelines:  

  • You should have completed the mold removal.  Visible mold and moldy odors should not be present.  Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage.   
  • You should have revisited the site(s) shortly after cleanup, and it should show no signs of water damage or mold growth.  
  • People should have been able to occupy or re-occupy the area without health complaints or physical symptoms.  
  • Ultimately, this is a judgment call; there is no easy answer. If you have concerns or questions, be sure to ask your InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection.

 
 
Moisture and Mold Prevention and Control Tips
  • Moisture control is the key to mold control, so when water leaks or spills occur indoors, ACT QUICKLY.  If wet or damp materials or areas are dried within 24 to 48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases, mold will not grow.  
  • Clean and repair roof gutters regularly.  
  • Make sure the ground slopes away from the building's foundation so that water does not enter or collect around the foundation.  
  • Keep air-conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines unobstructed and flowing properly.
  • Keep indoor humidity low.  If possible, keep indoor humidity below 60% relative humidity (ideally, between 30% to 50%).  Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity meter, which is a small, inexpensive instrument (from $10 to $50) that is available at many hardware stores.  
  • If you see condensation or moisture collecting on windows, walls or pipes, ACT QUICKLY to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water source.  Condensation can be a sign of high humidity.

Actions that will help to reduce humidity:

  • Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes dryers, stoves, and kerosene heaters, to the outdoors, where possible.  (Combustion appliances, such as stoves and kerosene heaters, produce water vapor and will increase the humidity unless vented to the outside.)  
  • Use air conditioners and/or de-humidifiers when needed.  
  • Run the bathroom fan or open the window when showering.  Use exhaust fans or open windows whenever cooking, running the dishwasher or dishwashing, etc.

Actions that will help prevent condensation:

  • Reduce the humidity (see above).  
  • Increase ventilation and air movement by opening doors and/or windows, when practical.  Use fans as needed.  
  • Cover cold surfaces, such as cold water pipes, with insulation.  
  • Increase air temperature.


Testing or Sampling for Mold
 
Is sampling for mold needed?  In most cases, ifvisible mold growth is present, sampling is unnecessary.  Since no EPAor other federal limits have been set for mold or mold spores, samplingcannot be used to check a building's compliance with federal moldstandards.  Surface sampling may be useful to determine if an area hasbeen adequately cleaned or remediated.  Sampling for mold should beconducted by professionals who have specific experience in designing mold sampling protocols, sampling methods, and interpreting results. Sample analysis should follow analytical methods recommended by theAmerican Industrial Hygiene Association (AIHA), the American Conferenceof Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH), or other professionalorganizations.
 
Suspicion of Hidden Mold 
 
You may suspect hidden mold if a building smellsmoldy but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has beenwater damage and residents are reporting health problems. Mold may behidden in places such as the backside of dry wall, wallpaper orpaneling, the top-side of ceiling tiles, or the underside of carpetsand pads, etc. Other possible locations of hidden mold include areasinside walls around pipes (with leaking or condensing pipes), thesurface of walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), insideductwork, and in roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaksor insufficient insulation).
 
Investigating Hidden Mold Problems 
 
Investigating hidden mold problems may be difficultand will require caution when the investigation involves disturbingpotential sites of mold growth. For example, removal of wallpaper canlead to a massive release of spores if there is mold growing on theunderside of the paper. If you believe that you may have a hidden moldproblem, consider hiring an experienced professional.
 
Cleanup and Biocides 
 
Biocides are substances that can destroy livingorganisms. The use of a chemical or biocide that kills organisms suchas mold (chlorine bleach, for example) is not recommended as a routinepractice during mold cleanup. There may be instances, however, whenprofessional judgment may indicate its use (for example, whenimmune-compromised individuals are present). In most cases, it is notpossible or desirable to sterilize an area; a background level of moldspores will remain, and these spores will not grow if the moistureproblem has been resolved. If you choose to use disinfectants orbiocides, always ventilate the area and exhaust the air to theoutdoors. Never mix chlorine bleach with other cleaning solutions ordetergents that contain ammonia because toxic fumes could be produced.   
 
Please note:Dead mold may still cause allergic reactions in some people, so it isnot enough to simply kill the mold; it must also be removed.
 
Ten Things You Should Know About Mold
 
 1.  Potential health effects andsymptoms associated with mold exposure include allergic reactions,asthma, and other respiratory complaints. 
 
 2.  There is no practical way toeliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the wayto control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
 
 3.  If mold is a problem in your home, you must clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture.
 
 4.  Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
 
 5.  Reduce indoor humidity (to 30% to 60%) to decrease mold growth by: 
a. venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside;
b. using air conditioners and de-humidifiers;
c. increasing ventilation; and
d. using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.  
 6.  Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold growth.
 
 7.  Clean mold off hard surfaces withwater and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent materials that aremoldy (such as carpeting and ceiling tiles) may need to be replaced. 
 
 8.  Prevent condensation.  Reduce thepotential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping,exterior walls, roof and floors) by adding insulation. 
 
 9.  In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting.
 
10.  Molds can be found almostanywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, provided moistureis present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, andfoods.
 
 
 

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Dryer Vent Saftey

Clothes dryers evaporate the water from wet clothing by blowing hot air past them while they tumble inside a spinning drum. Heat is provided by an electrical heating element or gas burner. Some heavy garment loads can contain more than a gallon of water which, during the drying process, will become airborne water vapor and leave the dryer and home through an exhaust duct (more commonly known as a dryer vent).
 
A vent that exhausts moist air to the home exterior has a number of requirements:
  1. It should be connected. The connection is usually behind the dryer but may be beneath it. Look carefully to make sure it’s actually connected!
  2. It should not be restricted. Dryer vents are often made from flexible plastic or metal duct, which may be easily kinked or crushed where they exit the dryer and enter the wall or floor. This is often a problem since dryers tend to be tucked away into small areas with little room to work. Vent hardware is available which is designed to turn 90° in a limited space without restricting the flow of exhaust air. Restrictions should be noted in the inspector's report. Airflow restrictions are a potential fire hazard!
  3. One of the reasons that restrictions are a potential fire hazard is that, along with water vapor evaporated out of wet clothes, the exhaust stream carries lint – highly flammable particles of clothing made of cotton and polyester. Lint can accumulate in an exhaust duct, reducing the dryer’s ability to expel heated water vapor, which then accumulates as heat energy within the machine. As the dryer overheats, mechanical failures can trigger sparks, which can cause lint trapped in the dryer vent to burst into flames. This condition can cause the whole house to burst into flames! Fires generally originate within the dryer but spread by escaping through the ventilation duct, incinerating trapped lint, and following its path into the building wall.
InterNACHI believes that house fires caused by dryers are far more common than are generally believed, a fact that can be appreciated upon reviewing statistics from the National Fire Protection Agency. Fires caused by dryers in 2005 were responsible for approximately 13,775 house fires, 418 injuries, 15 deaths, and $196 million in property damage. Most of these incidents occur in residences and are the result of improper lint cleanup and maintenance. Fortunately, these fires are very easy to prevent.

The recommendations outlined below reflect International Residential Code (IRC) SECTION M1502 CLOTHES DRYER EXHAUST guidelines:

M1502.5 Duct construction.
Exhaust ducts shall be constructed of minimum 0.016-inch-thick (0.4 mm) rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces, with joints running in the direction of air flow. Exhaust ducts shall not be connected with sheet-metal screws or fastening means which extend into the duct.

This means that the flexible, ribbed vents used in the past should no longer be used. They should be noted as a potential fire hazard if observed during an inspection.
M1502.6 Duct length.
The maximum length of a clothes dryer exhaust duct shall not exceed 25 feet (7,620 mm) from the dryer location to the wall or roof termination. The maximum length of the duct shall be reduced 2.5 feet (762 mm) for each 45-degree (0.8 rad) bend, and 5 feet (1,524 mm) for each 90-degree (1.6 rad) bend. The maximum length of the exhaust duct does not include the transition duct.
This means that vents should also be as straight as possible and cannot be longer than 25 feet. Any 90-degree turns in the vent reduce this 25-foot number by 5 feet, since these turns restrict airflow.

A couple of exceptions exist:
  1. The IRC will defer to the manufacturer’s instruction, so if the manufacturer’s recommendation permits a longer exhaust vent, that’s acceptable. An inspector probably won’t have the manufacturer’s recommendations, and even if they do, confirming compliance with them exceeds the scope of a General Home Inspection.
  2. The IRC will allow large radius bends to be installed to reduce restrictions at turns, but confirming compliance requires performing engineering calculation in accordance with the ASHRAE Fundamentals Handbook, which definitely lies beyond the scope of a General Home Inspection!
M1502.2 Duct termination.
Exhaust ducts shall terminate on the outside of the building or shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer’s installation instructions. Exhaust ducts shall terminate not less than 3 feet (914 mm) in any direction from openings into buildings. Exhaust duct terminations shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination.
Inspectors will see many dryer vents terminate in crawlspaces or attics where they deposit moisture, which can encourage the growth of mold, wood decay, or other material problems. Sometimes they will terminate just beneath attic ventilators. This is a defective installation. They must terminate at the exterior and away from a door or window! Also, screens may be present at the duct termination and can accumulate lint and should be noted as improper. 
M1502.3 Duct size.
The diameter of the exhaust duct shall be as required by the clothes dryer’s listing and the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Look for the exhaust duct size on the data plate.
M1502.4 Transition ducts.
Transition ducts shall not be concealed within construction. Flexible transition ducts used to connect the dryer to the exhaust duct system shall be limited to single lengths not to exceed 8 feet (2438 mm), and shall be listed and labeled in accordance with UL 2158A.
In general, an inspector will not know specific manufacturer’s recommendations or local applicable codes and will not be able to confirm the dryer vent's compliance to them, but will be able to point out issues that may need to be corrected.
 
Posted By Jhn Scaparo, Written by Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard, NACHI 

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Why Hire A Certified Home Inspector

Buying home is one of the most expensive purchase decision you will ever make. Typically you have 5 - 10 days to find a Professional Home Inspector, have the home inspected, and get those defects repaired.

This is not a time to shop for a cheap inspection. Prepare in advance to hire a Certified Inspector you trust and works in your best interests. The cost of an inspection is very small relative to the home price and your commission you will pay your Agent. It may even save you life.

Typical cost for an inspection is about $300. The cost of hiring a Certified Home Inspector is insignificant in comparison to the costs, time, and frustrations repairing a home with a major defect or safety hazard. Major defects could be structural or safety related like not having the proper garage fire proofing to protect your family. These items to the untrained eye would be concealed.

As a home buyer, you have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals. Do not stop now. Do not let your real estate agent or anyone else talk you into skimping here. Hire a certified Home Inspector. The Buyers who hires a Certified Inspector are more satisfied with their home buying experience and in most cases know the home better than the Seller. This is a significant Buyer's advantage that will give you the confidence and allow you to make a sound buying decision. Remember this is your last chance to thoroughly walk through and inspect the components and systems of the home before the closing. Visit my website to lean more www.innovativehomeinspection.com. This article is published by Innovative Home Inspection, we are "helping to secure your home investment". We provide Profession Home Inspection Services including Mold and Radon Testing throughout SE Michigan.

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Foundation Walls and Floors Cracks

 It is very common to see cracks in the foundation concrete walls or floors during an Inspection. Most times they are not a structural concern but shrinkage because of differences in temperature and moisture of the concrete during the drying process. These differences cause a  build of tensile stress that are relieved through cracking.

The following are visual clues which help to differentiate shrinkage cracks from other types of cracks which can appear in concrete slabs and foundation walls.
 
  • Vertical displacement:
    Cracks which are caused by soil settlement or heaving typically exhibit vertical displacement of the concrete; concrete on one side of the crack will be higher than concrete on the other side.
  • Linear crack continuity:
    Cracks caused by shrinkage are typically not linearly continuous. Although they make look continuous at first, if viewed closely, interruptions in the crack line can be seen.
  • Continuity through the slab:
    Shrinkage cracks are not continuous through the slab, but are actually cracks in the concrete surface.
  • Corrosion:
    When reinforcement steel is placed too near the surface, it can corrode. Expansion results as steel is converted to iron oxide through corrosion. This expansion can crack the concrete surface. When the crack is caused by corroding steel, corrosion is typically visible at the slab surface.
  • Alkali-aggregate reaction:
    Alkali-aggregate reaction is deterioration resulting from the reaction of an aggregate with alkali hydroxides in the concrete. Indications of this type of deterioration may be a network of cracks, closed or spalling joints, or displacement of different portions of a structure.
If your concrete foundation walls or floors have cracks and you are not sure if they are a concern, give Innovation Home Inspection a call and I would be happy to evaluate and provide you with a written Inspection Report and recommendation.  Call 734-664-5853.

Some of the Information is provide by InterNACHI.

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15 Tools That Every Homeowner Should Own

The following items are essential tools but this list is by no means exhaustive. Feel free to ask an InterNACHI inspector during your next inspection about other tools that you might find useful.
 
1.  Plunger
A clogged sink or toilet is one of the most disturbing problems that you will face. With a plunger on hand, however, you can usually remedy these troubling plumbing issues relatively quickly. It is best to have two plungers -- one for the sink and one for the toilet.
 
2.  Combination Wrench Set
One end of a combination wrench set is open and the other end is a closed loop. Nuts and bolts are manufactured in standard and metric sizes and because both varieties are widely used, so you’ll need both sets of wrenches. For the most control and leverage, always pull the wrench toward you, instead of pushing on it. Also, avoid over-tightening.

3.  Slip-Joint Pliers
Use slip-joint pliers to grab hold of a nail, a nut, a bolt, and much more. These types of pliers are versatile because of the jaws, which feature both flat and curved areas for gripping many types of objects. There is also a built-in slip-joint, which allows the user to quickly adjust the jaw size to suit most tasks.

4.  Adjustable WrenchCaulking gun
Adjustable wrenches are somewhat awkward to use and can damage a bolt or nut if they are not handled properly. However, adjustable wrenches are ideal for situations where you need two wrenches of the same size. Screw the jaws all the way closed to avoid damaging the bolt or nut.

5.  Caulking Gun
Caulking is the process of sealing up cracks and gaps in various structures and certain types of piping. Caulking can provide noise mitigation and thermal insulation, and control water penetration. Caulk should be applied only to areas that are clean and dry.
 
6.  Flashlight
None of the tools in this list is of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation. The problem, and solution, are apparent only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight is usually sufficient, as larger flashlights may be too unwieldy.
 
7.  Tape Measure
Measuring house projects requires a tape measure, not a ruler or a yardstick. Tape measures come in many lengths, although 25 feet is best.  Measure everything at least twice to ensure accuracy. 
 

8.  Hacksaw
These are great for cutting metal objects such as pipes, bolts and brackets. Torpedo levelHacksaws look thin and flimsy, but they’ll easily cut through even the hardest of metals. Blades are replaceable, so focus your purchase on a quality hacksaw frame.
 
9. Torpedo Level
Only a level can be used to determine if something, such as a shelf, appliance or picture, is correctly oriented. The torpedo-style level is unique because it not only shows when an object is perfectly horizontal or vertical, but it also has a gauge that shows when an object is at a 45-degree angle. The bubble in viewfinder must be exactly in the middle, not merely close.

10.  Safety Glasses / Goggles
For all tasks involving a hammer or a power tool, you should always wear safety glasses or goggles. They should also be worn while you mix chemicals.

11.  Claw Hammer
A good hammer is one of the most important tools you can own.  Use it to drive and remove nails, to pry wood loose from the house, and in combination with other tools. They come in a variety of sizes, although a 16-ounce hammer is the best all-purpose choice.

12.  Screwdriver Set
It is best to have four screwdrivers: a small and large version of both a flat-head and a Phillips- head screwdriver. Electrical screwdrivers areWire cutter sometimes convenient, but they're no substitute.  Manual screwdrivers can reach into more places and they are less likely to damage the screw. 

13.  Wire Cutters
Wire cutters are pliers designed to cut wires and small nails. The “side-cutting” (unlike the stronger "end-cutting" style) style is handy, but not strong enough to cut small nails.

14.  Respirator / Safety Mask
While paints and other coatings have become less toxic (and lead-free) over time, most still contain dangerous chemicals, which is why you should wear a mask to avoid accidentally getting them in your lungs. A mask should also be worn when working in dusty or dirty environments. Disposable masks usually come in packs of 10 and should be thrown away after use. Full and half-face respirators can be used to prevent the inhalation of very fine particles that ordinary facemasks will not not stop. 

15.  Duct Tape
This tape is extremely strong and adaptable. Originally, it was widely used to make temporary repairs to many types of military equipment. Today, it’s one of the key items specified for home emergency kits because it is water-resistant and extremely sticky.
 
In summary, the above is a list of tools that every homeowner should have.

Contact Innovative Home Inspection 734-664-5853 To Book Your Inspection Today.
Visit Website for more information
http://InnovativeHomeInspection.com

By Nick Gromicko, Rob London, John Scaparo www.nachi.org

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Welcome to my blog. Please check back soon for new entries.

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